Do you buy silver plated items?
Do you buy flatware/tea sets?
Do you purchase dental gold and silver?
Will you buy loose diamonds?
Are certain diamond shapes more expensive than others?
Do you buy gold filled jewelry?
Do you buy gold/silver bullion?
Do you buy coins?
Does the fluctuating price of metals affect what I get in cash for gold or jewelry?
Do you make custom jewelry?
Do you do trades on jewelry?
Does the company use scales that are certified by the state and legal trade scales?
How long has the company been in the precious metals and jewelry business?
Does the company take your possessions into a “backroom” to evaluate?
Are you dealing with a middleman?
Are their buyers qualified or just salespeople?
Are they qualified to examine and assess the value of your heirlooms, including watches and silver?
Why can’t you pay me the price on my written insurance appraisal?
I found some placer gold in the desert, will you buy it as is?
If I bring in a written quote from a competitor, will you beat it?
If I want to sell my jewelry on consignment, is that an option?
Is your refinery here in Tucson?
Can I pay off my pawn/loan early?
My collection is quite large and I’m not comfortable bringing it to your store. May I set an appointment for you to come to my home?
So how can you determine if your jewelry is real?
There are a few easy ways to tell if your jewelry is real or not:
- The first initial test would be to find a strong magnet and see if your jewelry sticks to the magnet. If it does stick than its definitely not a precious metal. So, in this case, it would not be gold, platinum or silver.
- Looking at the item and making sure there is not any discoloration or coating coming off. If this is the case, the item is likely plated and not real.
- Looking for brand names and hallmarks is also important. If you are looking at prestigious brands, such as Tiffany & Co, it should have their brand name stamped on the jewelry. The stamp should be crisp, straight and very clear to read. Hallmarks such as 10k, 14k, 18k or 416, 585, & 750 are also good indications that your item is most likely real.
- Having a trusted diamond certificate helps from laboratories such as; GIA, EGL, IGI, among others. This is a sure way to tell that your diamond is authentic.
- If you are still having doubts about your jewelry’s authenticity, you should have it appraised to put your mind at ease. At PMR, we have experts and complex machinery to accurately appraise your items.
Why is it better to sell directly to a PMR Buyer?
Tell us about what services you offer at PMR?
What should people do if they are considering selling their valuables?
What should you look for when buying or selling a diamond?
The most important thing when determining a diamond’s value is the 4 C’s: cut, color, clarity and carat.
Cut measures workmanship, not a diamond’s inherent qualities. The way a stone is cut enhances sparkle and luminosity and can hide flaws.
Color is graded by letter and ranges from D to Z. A & D are rare and colorless. As you progress down the scale, the stones increase in color. E and F are considered excellent, but G or H diamonds can look just as good to the naked eye. N to Z stones typically will have a yellow tint and are not very favorable.
Clarity measures diamond flaws, called inclusions, which might appear as tiny spots, clouds, or cavities.
Finally, carat is a weight measurement. There is no ideal size for a diamond, it depends on your budget and taste. Small diamonds are cheaper than large diamonds. A ring with three small diamonds totaling 1 carat costs less than a single 1 carat stone of similar quality.